Couple on the Run: Holy Mole Oaxaca

Oaxaca, Mexico
July 26-30, 2014

Oaxaca has been on our lists of places to see (as it should be on everyone's) for quite some time. It is a charming colonial city in southern Mexico that is known for its culture and has gained international recognition for its gastronomy... mole anyone? What we didn't realize is that we decided to come here at the same time as everyone else. During the last two weeks of July Oaxaca celebrates its culture in the Guelaguetza Festival where people travel from all over the Mexico to be part of the festivities. It is especially important to the various ethnic groups in the state of Oaxaca who come in their traditional clothing to celebrate their heritage.

While the main events were held at the amphitheater, there were plenty of opportunities to take part in the fun around town... most of which we happened upon by accident. Wandering around we came across a parade in which each of the distinct regional groups was represented. A man from the Michoacan group ran over to us while marching down the street with a bottle of Mezcal and poured us each a shot... a great accompaniment to a great show!

Dance Performance

As we continued to explore the city, we just kept being surprised by events associated with the Guelaguetza. Although we didn't plan it, as it turns out, it was the perfect time to be in Oaxaca! We were able to see sites from all over the state without having to leave the city!

State Police Corp Band

Street Performers

Art exhibit along one of the walking streets

As we were sitting in a plaza enjoying a lunch of freshly made tortillas, salsa and some kind of delicious smokey meat, a band came marching through, followed by a group of dancers. Candy was being thrown and everyone was cheering! Who knew we would be in for some lunch time entertainment?

Tortillas... yum!

Guelaguetza Amphitheater

Fireworks over the amphitheater, viewed from our hostel's balcony

Aside from the massive party happening in the streets of Oaxaca, the city itself is beautiful with plenty of things to check out! We roamed the streets admiring the architecture, strolled through markets selling delicious smelling chilies and chapolines (grasshoppers), and ate lots of delicious street food!

Chilies

Chapolines

This is the site at the Zocolo (center plaza). Originally, we thought it was venders and visitors camped out for the festival, but after reading the news, it seems to be a protest movement. Not a day has gone by that we haven´t seen some kind of protest, whether it be the marches we saw in Mexico City, the many signs and banners around Oaxaca, or this encampment. Way to go Mexico for exercising your right to peaceful protest and also, for not letting it get in the way of a good party... the festival just set up around them! The Zocolo was packed with vendors, food stalls, musicians and people, despite the tents!

Monte Alban

After walking around Oaxaca for a couple of days taking in the Guelaguetza, we decided it was time for some history. We took a bus up to Monte Alban. These are the main ruins of the ancient Zapotec people that settled in the Oaxacan valleys around the same time as the Aztecs.

In the early morning of July 29, we were shaken awake by an earthquake! Thanks to WA and CA public schools, our training went into effect and we hung out in our doorway as we watched others running around the courtyard in a panic. I have never felt an earthquake, so it seemed like a lot of shaking to me, but it wasn't even enough to knock anything over. Turns out it was a 6.4 with its epicenter not far from us in the state of Vericruz. Because it did minimal damage, with few injuries and no deaths, it turned out to be a memorable experience. So glad it wasn´t worse!

To sooth our shakyy nerves, we ambled over to the International Mezcal Fair, an auxillary event to the Guelaguetza. Entrance was about $3.50, and we really didn´t know what it included, but we bought our tickets, and stepped through the temporary walls surrounding the host plaza. It turns out it was like a beer festival with a ton of different Mezcal vendors pouring samples and selling their wares, and a main stage for entertainment. Who knew there was such an artisan movment for Mezcal?